For much of the 18th century, tomatoes were regarded with suspicion in Europe. Often called “poison apples,” they were believed to be dangerous due to their association with the nightshade family and their supposed ability to cause lead poisoning. While today tomatoes are a beloved staple in global cuisine, their journey from feared fruit to culinary essential is a fascinating tale of myth, science, and cultural transformation.
The Origins of the Tomato
The tomato (Solanum lycopersicum) originated in South America, where indigenous civilizations such as the Aztecs and Incas cultivated it as a vital part of their diet. The fruit was brought to Europe in the 16th century by Spanish explorers following their conquest of the Americas. Initially, tomatoes were met with curiosity, but widespread fear and misinformation prevented their acceptance for many years.
Why Were Tomatoes Feared?
1. The Nightshade Connection
Tomatoes belong to the Solanaceae family, commonly known as the nightshade family, which includes other edible plants like potatoes, eggplants, and peppers. However, this plant family also contains several toxic species, such as deadly nightshade (Atropa belladonna) and henbane (Hyoscyamus niger), both of which contain alkaloids that can be fatal in large doses.
Because tomatoes resembled these poisonous relatives, many Europeans were wary of consuming them, fearing they might be toxic. This association, though incorrect, contributed to their reputation as dangerous.
2. The Lead Poisoning Theory
Another reason for the tomato’s bad reputation involved pewter plates, which were commonly used by wealthy Europeans in the 18th century. Pewter, an alloy containing lead, was often used for making tableware and drinking vessels. Tomatoes are highly acidic, and when placed on pewter plates, they could leach lead from the metal, resulting in lead poisoning. This led to the mistaken belief that tomatoes themselves were poisonous.
Interestingly, lower-class Europeans who ate from wooden or ceramic dishes did not experience the same issues, but the idea of tomatoes as dangerous had already spread widely.
3. The Influence of Religious and Cultural Beliefs
During the Renaissance and Enlightenment periods, food was often judged based on its visual appearance and perceived medicinal properties. The bright red color of tomatoes made them appear suspicious to some, and early herbalists debated whether they were harmful or beneficial. Additionally, religious superstitions linked certain plants to witchcraft and dark magic, further discouraging tomato consumption.
How Tomatoes Overcame Their Bad Reputation
1. The Role of Italy in Tomato Acceptance
Italy played a crucial role in the acceptance of tomatoes. By the late 17th and early 18th centuries, Italian cooks had started using tomatoes in their dishes, particularly in Naples, where they were added to pasta and other staple foods. The first known Italian recipe using tomatoes appeared in 1692 in a Neapolitan cookbook, and from there, their popularity gradually grew.
As Italian cuisine spread, so did the acceptance of tomatoes. By the 19th century, dishes such as pasta with tomato sauce and pizza had cemented tomatoes as an essential ingredient in Mediterranean cooking.
2. The Influence of Scientific Advancement
As science progressed, chemists and botanists began to study tomatoes more closely, debunking myths about their toxicity. By the early 19th century, physicians and food experts in Europe and North America began to recognize the nutritional value of tomatoes, paving the way for their wider acceptance.
3. The American Adoption of Tomatoes
In the United States, tomatoes gained popularity earlier than in many parts of Europe. Thomas Jefferson, an influential advocate of new crops and gardening, grew tomatoes at Monticello and helped promote them as a viable food source. By the early 19th century, tomatoes were widely cultivated in the U.S. and featured in a variety of dishes.
One pivotal moment in changing public perception came when Colonel Robert Gibbon Johnson, a New Jersey farmer, reportedly ate a basket of tomatoes in front of a shocked crowd in 1820. Expecting him to keel over from poisoning, onlookers were stunned when he suffered no ill effects, helping to dispel the myth that tomatoes were deadly.
The Rise of Tomatoes as a Global Staple
By the mid-to-late 19th century, tomatoes had become an essential ingredient in many cuisines worldwide. The rise of canning technology in the 19th and 20th centuries further boosted their popularity, allowing tomatoes to be stored and transported long distances. This development helped make tomato-based products like ketchup, tomato sauce, and canned tomatoes household staples across the globe.
Modern Understanding of Tomato Nutrition and Benefits
Today, tomatoes are celebrated for their health benefits. They are rich in vitamins A, C, and K, as well as antioxidants such as lycopene, which has been linked to reduced risk of heart disease and certain cancers. Their versatility in cooking, from fresh salads to soups, sauces, and juices, has made them indispensable in cuisines worldwide.
Conclusion
The journey of the tomato from feared “poison apple” to beloved global staple is a testament to how cultural beliefs, misinformation, and science can shape our relationship with food. Thanks to early adopters, scientific research, and culinary experimentation, tomatoes overcame their controversial past to become one of the most consumed fruits worldwide. Today, it’s hard to imagine a world without tomatoes—whether in a classic Italian pasta dish, a fresh summer salad, or a bottle of ketchup on the table.
